Some restaurants open and close, and some become reference points. Dolmama is firmly the second kind. The address at 10 Pushkin Street has meant one thing in Yerevan for years: Armenian cuisine in its most thoughtful and carefully considered form. It is often the first name that comes up when someone asks where to take an important guest in Yerevan, and that is not an accident. The menu is a modern interpretation of traditional Armenian dishes: dolma in multiple variations, each slightly different from the last, local vegetables and herbs sourced from the market, Armenian meat dishes and fish with precise seasoning and presentation, and desserts that bring Armenian sweet traditions into a contemporary register. In summer the courtyard opens, and Dolmama takes on a completely different quality: an old Yerevan yard, trees overhead, candles on the tables and Armenian music in the background, all combining into an experience that is genuinely difficult to replicate anywhere else in the city. The service is professional and warm, the wine list is entirely Armenian, and the staff know something worth saying about every bottle. Dolmama is the restaurant where Armenia and Armenian food culture are presented in their clearest and most confident form – the kind of place that reminds you why this cuisine deserves the same serious attention as any other in the world.