Tucked in the basement at 7 Sayat-Nova Avenue, Ulikhanyan Club is one of those places where you go just for one drink and end up staying until the last encore. The room is small, brick-walled and intimate, with the stage almost within arm's reach, so when the band starts playing jazz, fusion or ethno-jazz, you feel more like part of a private jam session than a big concert. The bar takes its drinks seriously: a solid wine list with Armenian reds and whites, classic cocktails from Old Fashioned and Negroni to dry Martinis, and a good selection of Armenian brandy for a slow late-night sip. Simple bar snacks complete the picture without stealing the focus from the music. Live music is on almost every evening, from jam sessions on Mondays to ticketed concerts and festival-style lineups, and the crowd is a mix of musicians, locals and curious visitors who found the club by word of mouth. If you want to feel Yerevan's night side without going to a noisy club, Ulikhanyan is exactly that sweet spot – dim lights, great sound, strong drinks and the sense that you have discovered a small underground heart of the city's music scene.